Sunday 1 August 2010

Day 13 Pitlochry to Edinburgh

After a good breakfast (and thanks to the B&B for packing me up a bacon sandwich for midmorning), I left my panniers with Anne (hurrrrayyyyyy!) and headed off for Edinburgh (Ratho to be exact as that is where Anne lives).

I crossed the river at Pitlochry and then took the twisty road out of town to avoid the main road. Headed out towards Aberfeldy where I stopped for a drink break. Then the hill climb began. Oh my but the hill went on, and on, and then on a bit more, and on (just think of Mrs Doyle from Father Ted offering you a cup of tea if you are a bit reluctant to take it...). However, the view when I got up the hill was great, and then the road was a real blast (Lightning had the need for speed on that one). Through the Sma' Glen which was an amazing downhill ride. Stopped in the Glen for a bacon sandwich and watched a Sparrowhawk just hanging in the air for a while. Think I could hear the call of an eagle somewhere but didn't see it.

Cruised into Crieff but then hit heavy traffic in the town which was a real shocker after the coasting rides of the morning. Onwards to Glen Eagles and Glen Devon. Last time I was here I was cycling the other way and there was a monster head wind. Today I was heading up the hill and I have to say that Scotland has got the principle of gently working your way up a hill rather than just taking it all in one burst. Stopped at a pub in Glen Devon for lunch and then onwards past Knock Hill racetrack on some glorious roads.

Now when I hit Dunfermline the shock of being amongst so much traffic was quite a rattler. Suddenly there were speedy cars who all wanted to be there yesterday all over the place. I tried to make my way towards the Forth Bridge but there were loads of nasty roundabouts and rather pushy drivers. After a fortifying chocolate break I girded my loins to face the Forth bridge. The scary hairy bit was the A90 before the bridge as the drivers had just been on a motorway and were down to 2 lanes but were still thinking there were on the motorway. No bike lane at this point, but merging traffic with heavy lorries and speeding cars. Head down and just go. When I eventually got to the bridge and gave a cheer of delight when I saw the designated footpath/cycle path this quickly turned to a whimper when I realised the path was closed on my side of the bridge. I had to carry Lightning down the steps, under the bridge and then back up the other side. There may have been moderate to extreme swearing going on at this point (me, not Lightning - she is too much of a Lady to mutter the things I was saying at that point). If you have seen the film 'Team America' you will probably have encountered the terms I was using. Have surely earned myself several years in pergatory for that...

Eventually got onto the bridge on which there is a 15mph speed limit for bikes (had to keep checking the mileometer as it was very easy to run over that speed). Walked up to the main roundabout as I was now on the wrong side of the dual carriageway. I saw the signs for Kirkliston and then was on my way - all of a sudden the traffic lessened and I was bowling along nicely. A cheer on sighting the signs for Ratho and then on to Anne's house.

I could not have asked to stay with a kindlier host. Anyone who brings me a G and T whilst I sort out my bike stuff and get ready for a well deserved shower is always a good'un. Made myself more presentable and then it was over to the house of the ever-lovely Doris. Doris was the lady whose house I stayed in overnight when I was last in Ratho for the Land's End to John O'Groats. What a fantastic hostess. A delicious home cooked dinner, good conversation and humour. Oh these Ratho ladies know how to treat a weary cyclist well!! We sat down with the maps for a bit to work out the best way for me to get to Prudhoe near Newcastle the next day, and figured out the best routes. Feeling tired but reenergised by such wonderful company.

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