Day 9 - Helmsdale to John O'Groats, Dunnet Head and back again

Woke up before my alarm could do its stuff at 4:30. Remembered the Father Ted quote from Father Dougal of 'Ted, I've never seen a clock at 5AM before, Ted'. Stumbled downstairs, picked up lightning, loaded up the drinks bottles, rack bag, mileometer and then headed out as the town clock struck 5.

Had been musing the evening before what to pack in my rackbag for a journey of over 100 miles. Chocolate, obviously. Spare inner tubes, pump, first aid kit, waterproofs (was already wearing the dayglow...), maps, phone, is there space for much more?

The first 10 miles out of Helmsdale where tough - it's a real slog up hill, then another, and other, a cruise downhill but then more uphill. Came to a place called the Berridale Braes which I remembered from last time - long cruise downhill, then a steep descent and a sharp corner, suddenly switching to a really steep uphill. Got about 20 yards up the otherside before deciding to walk it, in part because there were traffic lights to contend with. Pushed lightning most of the way up the other side, thinking to myself that I will never make the 120 miles at this rate. However, from there onwards I started to pick up the pace and was flying along at some points. It's amazing how many miles you can cover without really noticing it once you take the panniers off the bike. Eventually into Dunbeath and then on to Latherton. Kept on the coastal road and all of a sudden I was in Wick. I must have been whizzing along just thinking to myself of all the options for how I could get lightning and me back to Helmsdale if I just couldn't go on any further and then was in Wick. Scenery getting very familiar - off the main roads onto the smaller roads up to John O'Groats.

Stopped at Keiss for a sausage roll and to shelter from the rain that was getting persistant. Next thing I knew I was in John O'Groats. They have taken away the sign that welcomes you to the town which I remember from before (BOOOO!!!) and the local authorities obviously didn't listen to my recommendation to take away the hill before you get to John O'Groats (silly place to put a hill....).

Arrived at John O'Groats and there were loads of cyclists milling around, either getting ready to start or just having finished the end-to-end. Funny breed, cyclists. All very serious and intent on ensuring their equipment is in top shape. Saw some genuine End-to-Enders who didn't have a support vehicle and were carrying all their own kit, plus lots of lightweight cyclists who have a nice bus to carry all their kit and provide them with refreshment on the route. Felt a bit bad at not having my own panniers with me today, but I had lugged them all the way to Helmsdale and was going to be heading back to them in the day.

Didn't hang around for long - Lightning wanted her picture in front of the sign (she is the photogenic one out of the two of us) so obliged but then headed off to Dunnet Head. Lots of cyclists seemed to be heading that way. A kindly support team man helped to pump up my tyres with a foot pump -they had got really low and it is tricky to inflate them fully with a hand pump.

All South from here!!! Blitzed into Castletown, then took a B road to Wick in doublequick time. Stopped off for lunch at Wick and ran into a whole group of lads who are planning to cycle the JOGLE - good luck to you boys!!!

Just about to run out of time at the Internet cafe - will I reach Helmsdale? Story to be continued.....

Another day, another internet connection. Headed out of Wick and into a huge rainstorm. Was feeling pretty good having made it to John O'Groats and Dunnet Head so a little bit of moisture wasn't going to deflate me. The dayglow came into its own today - visibility down to about 10 metres at some points with lots of standing water on the road and idiot drivers still trying to bomb along at 60 mph!

Soon found myself in Latherton where the main A9 joins up with the road from Wick. Helmsdale now looking a distinct possibility as I was up to about 107 miles. Coasted into Dunbeath and then on to my old favourite the Berriedale Braes. Stuck amongst lots of slow moving traffic at the lights but then they left me behind on the uphill climb (funny that). Stopped for a photo moment or two (but I don't think photos will quite capture the joy of the Braes).

Just 10 more miles to go...gonna make it, gonna make it, on the final descent into Helmsdale (which is a long, lovely coaster of a ride - think I got up to about 35 mph at one point before thinking some brake useage might be a good idea). Pulled up outside the Belgrave Hotel in time for tea and medals - well, in time to take a photo of the mileometer reading 127.7 miles. Oh but that's a bit of a ride for a day, lass.

Headed in for a well deserved shower and three course dinner. Safe to say I scoffed the lot!! Asleep before my head hit the pillow this evening.

Thought for the day - what would be the top 5 bits of advice that I would give someone like John and his group that I met in Wick if they are about to set out on an End-to-End cycle:

1) Day glow is a must - make sure you are either wearing a bright t-shirt, have bright panniers or are wearing a day-glow waterproof as drivers might not see you otherwise. Motorised road users generally are pretty clueless around bicycles so make it a bit easier for them by making yourself easy to spot as far away as possible. No helmet, no cycle as far as I am concerned as well.

2) Don't fight the road as eventually it will always win - sounds daft this, but if you always try and push the pace then you will end up exhausting yourself for no good reason (voice of experience here!). To get an extra 2 miles an hour above your natural pace you could risk burnout. Roads have an ideal pace for you to ride them at (and that will vary from person to person) and if you try to fight against that speed all the time you will only tire yourself out. Rhythm is the key - go at a pace that feels right for you, don't be afraid to get off and walk if you need to. Don't try and fight the bike either - it will carry you along but you need to treat things like gears with a bit of respect as they won't thank you for trying to use them incorrectly. I realised I had been clinging on to the bike for dear life for the first couple of days which wasn't helping my shoulder muscles. Balance to be struck between working hard and staying relaxed - still working on that balance but be aware if you are trying too hard. Plenty of time to test yourself over the course of the ride and no need to be a hero on day 1 or indeed day 2,3,4...

3) Don't wait until you are hungry to eat, and if you wait until you are thirsty to drink then you have left it way too late. Always have food and drink with you on the bike and don't hesitate to stop for a break if you feel you need it.

4) Try and include at least one rest day every 7 days (ok, so I haven't done too well at that but I will be from here onwards) - if it means uping the mileage on two days so you can have a complete rest day then it is worth it.

5) This is a tip I picked up from Michael Palin (not in person but via a magazine article) - always pack your kit into the same place in your bags each day. That way you will be able to put your hand straight on whatever you need without having to search for it and you will also notice much quicker if something is missing. Smart cookie that Palin.

Today's thought for the day was brought to you by Vonsense - talking Vonsense for many a year...